In France, approximately 210 different varieties of Vitis vinifera are registered. However, the majority of production comes from 10 varieties.
Today I would like to take you on a journey to discover one of the varieties forgotten for a long time in France and abroad: the Persan.
This variety is grown in Savoie, Haute-Savoie and Isère.
It should not be assumed that its name has exotic origins as it comes from the term from that of the Princens vineyards, an ancient word meaning first wealth or first choice which was imposed by a high taxation in medieval times. These vineyards are located in Saint Jean-de-Maurienne east of Grenoble.
Persan was for a long time the vine that extended from the Arc valley to Isère. In fact, until the 1950s there were approximately 200 hectares of them in the area. Unfortunately, nowadays there are just 15 hectares scattered between Isère, Savoy and Haute-Savoie.
In fact, with the economic boom and the rise of industries in the areas, the vine was almost completely destroyed. If it survived and we talk about it today, it is thanks to the Grisard family who replanted it and sold the cuttings to other producers.
Persan generally has good production if planted on shale, gravelly or calcareous soil.
I had the opportunity to taste Persan’s 2022 vintage in Chapareillan at Domaine Giachino.
It has a deep ruby red color and is crystalline.
It is both intense and persistent at the olfactory exam. In fact, it is possible to perceive small red fruits, cherries, strawberries and liquorice.
The taste is dry, not very soft (a fact justified in Persan by the fact that it is infanticide to drink it before the age of 8), with a non-invasive tannicity and more fresh than savory.
On the retro-olfactory side it is both intense and persistent and is consistent with the sense of smell.
It is a ready wine.
To find out more about Persan I recommend reading « à la recontre des cépages modests et oubliés » book from which I took inspiration to write about Persan.
Italian 
English